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​AFGHANISTAN

December 2005


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November 2005. I’m a free-lance Audio Engineer and Technical Director. One of my clients gets in touch with me regarding an event organized in Kabul by a non-governmental organisation; they need someone to coordinate all technical aspects.

The plan was to have a presentation in Kabul for Afghan teenagers, explaining them democracy and involving them in a parliament session role-play with a voting system.

Belgian students would be in Brussels at the actual parliament holding the same session simultaneously and at the end would be linked with Kabul via video-conference to share their respective experiences and opinions.

The actual event was planned to happen on December 23rd or 24th. This is the log I held during the trip to keep track of the adventure…

After several coordination meetings and a visit to the Afghan and Azeri embassies for our visas, we take off on November 30th for a site-visit in order to prepare the logistics and meet the potential attendees. The team on this trip will be Jeannot Kupper, the Chairman of the organization producing this event, his colleague Christophe Gaeta, two militaries and myself.

Nov. 30th


 - 04.45 - Melsbroek Military Airpot. Our guide throughout the trip, Commander Claude Renard and his assistant from the Belgian army, meet us and we head to luggage check-in and security as well as customs controls, like in civil air travel. We’re then transferred to the air ground where our Hercules C130 aircraft awaits to bring us to the Far-East.

Everybody sits in the same class on those aircrafts: Cargo class. Simple cloth benches run along the sides of the non-pressurized cabin.

The cargo, sitting in the middle, is made up of an F16 jet-fighter engine and … Belgian beer… for the troops out there. Two aircraft mechanical engineers travel with us for a repair mission on a plane stuck in Baku. 
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 - 07.15 - Taxi and take-off for a 7-hour eastbound flight to our stop-over in Baku, Azerbaijan.

A few moments later, our aircraft hovers low over the clouds as the sun rises. Nobody says a word as the un-pressurised cabin let’s the noise of the four propeller engines draft through, slamming our ears, protected by ear-plugs.






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 - 10.30 - After some work on my laptop, sitting on the heated ground, we are granted a visit to the crew in the cockpit, while flying over Bucharest at 25.000 feet with a cruise speed of 350km/h (220mph).

A decent lunch is served to us then I doze down for a nap, still surrounded by the engine noise.

 - 17.20, GMT+4 - Touchdown in Baku.


After going through Immigration we are brought to our hotel for the night, the “Grand Hotel Europe” where all the Belgian military’s stay on there stop-overs.

We have a drink down at the bar before catching a taxi to the city centre where we have a meal at “Rasputin’s” Russian cuisine restaurant, followed by a few drinks in … an Irish pub!

Dec. 1st

 - 06.35 - I jump, last and late, in the transfer bus for the Airport. Midway Jeannot notices he left his passport at the hotel. Commandant Renard sends a taxi to go and get it so we don’t lose any time heading backwards at rush hour.

- 08.10 - Ready for take-off, again sitting on the cloth fittings that are supposed to be our seats in the C130.
Two Belgian Federal Police officers based in Baku are with us on the plane. They have an investigation to undertake, Belgian Military Police are not enforced to carry out legal investigations.
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After preparing my technical visit I have a nap on the heated floor. When I awake, we’re flying over endless ranges of Afghan desert mountains.

 - 11.15 - We’re requested to fit our helmets and bullet proof vests as we could be a potential target when arriving over Kabul. The C130 does not have weapons, but a defensive system called flares. They shoot out fire balls in all directions round the plane to bluff any missiles leading them away from the plane.


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 - 12.30, GMT+ 4.5 - Touchdown at Kabul Airport/NATO Military base. Altitude: 1800 meters.

We’re shown around the ISAF (International Security and Assistance Forces) base camp and introduced to our modular container bedroom units. Then brought lunch in the canteen where the staff is mainly Pakistani and all the goods from the United Arab Emirates.

After lunch we get our security induction. The security level is high, last week a German patrol got killed by driving on a mine, en route to Kabul hospital.

 - 14.30 - I meet up with Adjudant-Major Pelletier, 62 years old (to the right of the picture).

He shows me various options for installing our event and dealing with our logistics.

They’re all very helpful and enthusiastic about our project.


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My main concern will be the communications link for our video-conference; I’ll be dealing with Lieutenant Brandi in charge of IT down here for the Belgian Army.

In the meantime Jeannot and Christophe are going around Kabul with Commandant Renard in an armoured vehicle meeting officials, schools and universities to find English speaking attendants to the event.

16.30 – I have a shower to remove the ever-present dust here in Afghanistan.

There are no trees or any plantations left here as they have all been torn down to be used for the ongoing war efforts the country has been through since ages.

Then I take a walk around the military base which happens to be a real discovery for a civilian. It’s a kind of mini-world in here. The 5000 men and 100 women of the armed forces of each of the 24 nations taking part in the Afghan mission have their own sector in the camp, with at least one bar for each nation! So when the evening settles in there are loads of places to go around have booze, knowing they’re not supposed to have more than two drinks a night.

There are three mini-markets and a bunch of restaurants for those who want a change from the canteen: Italian, Thai, Burgers…Sports fields, a movie theatre, churches & mosques and the International Bar complete the entertainment packages.



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Apart from the airport activity, it is pretty calm and everybody seems relaxed. Imagine a holiday resort, where everybody would wear Kaki and combat boots…

 - 19.00 - After having dinner with a bunch of soldiers and exchanging points of views between the military and civilian worlds,
 I meet up with Lieutenant Brandi to find solutions for our communications. Alas… 

A little later, Jeannot and Christophe get back in one piece from Kabul and we have a few drinks at the Belgian bar.

Dec. 2nd

 - 07.30 – Breakfast, before a series of meetings with various comms specialists from the NATO, our video conferencing shouldn’t be a problem as we can use the military’s Video Conferencing Unit over the Iridium satellite system. The main issue is to get through the up and down link for the live coverage we’re doing with RTBF Belgian Television. They can not guarantee us the bandwidth or even the availability, as we’re requesting to go over high-priority military satellites.

 - 10.45 - Strolling through the camp with Peltier, listening to all his stories about his career and military life in general, we finally find the perfect location to set-up a tent to hold our event.

 - 12.00 - I have a pint at Air Force One, the international bar as I chat with two soldiers from Iceland. In the meantime, Jeannot and Christophe drive back in Kabul.

Then lunch with Lieutenant-Colonel Johan Andries, an F-16 pilot, also one of the main commanders of this ISAF base.

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 - 15.00 - After working a bit more and giving a few calls, I have another meeting with Brandi, but no solution to be found. We’ll have to look at another option for the news coverage.

Then I do a complete tour of the camp, watching the planes (100 air movements a day) and grabbing pictures.

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When Jeannot and Christophe are back, they introduce me to a journalist from TOLO TV who might be able to help us with our news coverage.

Jeannot brought back a wonderful souvenir: a pink plastic alarm clock in the shape of a mosque that will yell the prayer at you.

We spend the evening visiting the Swedish, then the Slovak bars and end at the Belgian bar where the atmosphere is always on the party side. Commandant Renard tells some of his war stories. For example, the one where he sets-up a whole parallel market business in Mogadishu harbour, in order to have a maximum of Somali’s on his side, then with their help, takes control of the harbour back from the rebels.

Dec. 3rd

 - 07.30 - No more hot water for my shower and it’s 2°C outside. Fresh wake-up!

After Breakfast I get in touch with “Afghan Wireless & Cable Communication” to see what they can do for our satellite link.

 - 12.00 - I wander about the weekly camp market. A bunch of Afghans are allowed in the camp to sell their stuff. Fake DVD’s and CD’s, souvenirs, local crafts, tailored suits, fabrics, ancient Russian military gear and memorabilia…

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 - 14.00 - I finalize logistics with Peltier and then go through our AV kit list. We can not afford forgetting a single piece of equipment and will need loads of spare.

 - 16.00 - The sun starts its way down and the temperature drops. I head back to the bedroom to figure out a loading plan to fit all the gear in the C130 aircraft that will bring us back here in 3 weeks.

The “Kabul team” is back with good news; they managed to secure all the students to attend the event.

We have diner all together in the Thai restaurant, then end up for some drinks at Air Force One where there’s a serious party going on. They’re all drunk and dancing… wearing firearms…!


Dec. 4th

 - 05.30 - Early wake-up and quick breakfast. We’re given a lunch box as we don’t know if they’ll have lunch for us on one of our return stop-overs, Termez.

Three French soldiers and an F16 pilot are with us. All hoping the C130 will take off, as yesterday it landed with only two motors on the four available. The flight engineer is confident.

 - 08.40 - We’re announced a 40-minute delay as mist has settled and the brand new airport radar will only be certified tomorrow. So we hang around the plane...

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 - 10.25 - We finally take off, and land 40 minutes later in Kunduz to quickly board 3 Belgian soldiers at the end of the runway and take off again in the usual roller-coaster style, to avoid being an easy target for the Taliban’s… they say…

 - 12.45 - We land in Termez, Uzbekistan, member of the very select club of “the last hard-core communist countries around”. No photos allowed. Commandant Renard needs to meet some local officials to re-negotiate the stop-over restriction for Belgian planes. At the moment only the German army is tolerated here, they have a small base camp close to the airport, where we have lunch.

 - 14.40 - We take-off again for our Baku night stop-over. We’ll have Azeri food for diner at the hotel and then go for a couple of drinks at the “Le Chevalier” disco, located under the hotel.


Dec. 5th

 - 07.15 - Breakfast, followed by our transfer through Baku’s rush-hour that give’s us the opportunity to see a bit of the city… It’s still all like USSR here…

 - 10.00, GMT+4 - We take off for the last leg of this site-visit. A 9-hour flight back to Belgium.

At lunch time, we’re served decent lunch platters prepared by “Azerbaijan Airlanes”.

 - 15.25, GMT +1 - Touchdown at Brussels Airport and taxi to the military air-base side, Melsbroek.

 - 15.30 - They stop the motors, what a relief! Earplugs finally come off.

After having scheduled a meeting with Jeannot and Christophe the next morning, I drop the two French soldiers at the station to catch their TGV back to Paris and head off to Liège.

After a dozen meetings with all the involved parties (army administration, IT logistics, TV station, satellite operators), rushing around suppliers, getting customs cleared for the equipment and supervising the load-in of our 2 Tons of AV gear we’re ready for Part 2 of the mission.

Dec. 21st

 - 06.30 – I arrive in Melsbroek and meet up with the team we’ve put together:

 - Benjamin journalist and his cameraman Vincent from the RTBF Belgian TV.
 - Michel and Lydie: AV technicians.
- Jean-Marie, a free-lance cameraman hired to cover "behind the scenes".
- Jeannot, the Boss! Christophe will stay here to coordinate the event from the Brussels-side.

Jeannot mentions that his and my Azeri visas are still valid when I question him on the subject… Personally I’m not that sure…

 - 10.45 - We take-off, two and a half hours behind schedule, direction Baku for another night at the “Grand Hotel Europe”.

We’re granted with some music that manages to get over the engine noise with a nice play-list choice from the crew.

Thanks to my two battery packs, I managed to use my laptop for most of the trip, working, reading and watching a movie, comfortably seated on the top of a bier cans palette under the heating vents.

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 - 21.00 - As I had foreseen, our Azeri visa’s are not valid as they’re single-entry. Luckily we can have them done at the local Immigration office.

On the way to the hotel I had a chat with The Flemish Spy, a member of Belgium’s intelligence services that was with us in the plane, he has some communications interception devices in his suitcase and will be up all night to gather information, then head back to Belgium the next morning.

So we didn’t see him and the “Le Chevalier” disco that was packed tonight. By 3.30 and after having to decline the transactions proposed by the Azeri girls and sent the pilot, having too many whiskies, to bed, we grab a short night’s sleep.


Dec. 22nd

 - 10.20 - Our transfer bus arrives… Jan De Bond, code Nul-Nul-Zeven isn’t around, still gathering whatever crucial information in his room, we guess.

 - 16.15 - Helmets, bullet-proof vest and roller-coaster landing at Kabul International Airport.

A very cute Greek female soldier check’s-us-in and show’s us our tent dormitory, where the whole team will sleep. No container rooms this time, except for Lydie our female crew member, but we’ve got heating so we’ll be fine.

 - 17.30 - Me and Jeannot explain our action plan and all the details of this event to the local military directly involved and those in charge of the main operations down here.

 - 20.00 - After dinner, we start setting-up the AV gear with the help of the soldiers. Everything is set and working by 1.00 am.

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Dec. 23rd

After breakfast, we head to “the venue” for some last checks. The soldiers struggle a little with their Video Conferencing Unit but we got it all working in the end and grabbed a quick lunch package sitting at the back of a Land Rover.

 - 13.30 - All the attendees have arrived and Brussels is ready on their side. We can launch the “Yes For Democracy” session and Jeannot does his presentation.

In Brussels the kids assembled in the actual parliament also get a presentation. We then have the voting session, then they interact with the kids in Brussels and many interesting questions are assessed.

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Two hours later the session ends, all went well and everybody is delighted
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 - 18.00 - We have diner, then hit the tent once again to do some technical adjustments as we’re having a “fake” session for the live coverage on the national evening news.

As the parents would not allow the kids to stay outside after-dark, we need to simulate the session with some Pakistani workers from the military base.

 - 19.30 - For the live news coverage, I finally had hired a satellite transmission truck from Turkish IHA, remote broadcasting specialists, and secured a transmission slot on a commercial satellite.

The truck set's-up, get's linked with the satellite and we feed it with the signal. We then get in touch with the evening news control room for a 30 minute check-run, the time we had hired the satellite for rehearsals. We do major lighting adjustments, it needs to look perfect as we’ll be “windowed” side-by-side with the Brussels team and have the two journalists interact, but back there, they have loads more gear and time to make it look good.

Then comes the sound-check, Brussels is really not happy with what they’re getting and we already spent a lot of the satellite-slot for the lighting adjustments. We run through the audio signal chain and finally find the glitch, a little switch got jammed on the camera and by the time we get it all right we have 30 seconds left…

We let the news control room know we’re ready for a final audio check but they refuse it. They estimate having not enough time to check that it is really solved and be sure they’ll get a good signal so they decide to cancel the whole subject in the news program and shut us off!

We’re really bitter and so disappointed; all those efforts to get great media coverage with a very interesting live session are thrown to the ground. We go all straight to bed...


Dec. 24th

Today, Jeannot, Jean-Marie and I, managed to organize a visit of Kabul, guided by a university teacher who picked us up at the military base entrance. Jeannot would also like to do an interview of a local writer/philosopher that seems to have very modern ideas for his country.

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At lunch, we go to the Lucky restaurant, women are seated in another room, where we interview the guy who quite strangely back’s-off from the ideas we were interested in hearing. Maybe was he afraid of the camera…

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In the afternoon, back at the base, we meet the Belgian Defence Minister that just landed here with a bunch of his generals, to have a Christmas party with his troops. We show him around our event set and explain him what exactly took place, showing him some of the footage we shot. We then de-rigged the equipment and got it ready to load it back in the C130.

After a shower, we’re ready for a Christmas party. The Defence Minister brought along a blues band from his home-town to perform tonight after diner. We end the evening in the Slovak bar where Father Christmas joins us later.

 - 23.50 - As every evening, bar’s must close at midnight, even on Christmas Eve… there’s a war going on outside.

We head back to the tent and treat ourselves with a last whisky from the bottle Michel had in the tent, when we see three Belgian armoured vehicles entering the camp back from a patrol… That was their Christmas Eve…


Dec. 25th

 - 08.00 - John-Marie “Spielberg” shoots some action photo’s of Jeannot and Me and we all head to the air-base, except for Michel and Lydie who will return 2 days later with the AV gear for a direct C130-flight back.

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Our first stop today is Kunduz, where the Minister wants to greet a small Belgian detachment amongst a German base. The plane is packed, the Minister and his party plus a bunch of soldiers going home and the blues band, it’s configured in passenger mode..., just more rows of those cloth benches. Helmets and Bullet proof vests for everyone. Roller-coaster take-off. A bunch of them are sick, too much booze yesterday? Jeannot and Me are fighting to keep it in!

 - 10.15 - Roller-coaster down and a very heavy and bumpy touch-down on the smashed tarmac of what used to be Kunduz air-base.

We’re greeted by the Germans that will drive the whole of us in those mini troop-transfer vehicles to the military camp.


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These are the rural and remote areas of North Afghanistan, as we discover along the way.

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Press conference and Christmas drink before a good Christmas meal, in the purest German style.

 - 13.00 - Back to the air field where the Minister wants a picture with us for bringing this event out so far.

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Then we take off for Dushanbe, Tajikistan, where we’ll catch a "real" passenger plane from the Belgian Air force, an Airbus A310.
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 - 16.30 - After having been served refreshments by the French soldiers managing the air-base, we board for the trip home via Turkey, for a refuel.

 - 19.00 - After a few minutes in an airport lounge at Ankara, we board the A310 for the very last leg of this adventure…

The blues band will split during the flight, money seemed to be the cause… While Jeannot and Me imagine having the plane branded with the “Yes For Democracy” logo and touring the world with this project. At least the next step is confirmed by the Minister during the flight; happy with our job he gives us the go for a Kosovo event.

 - 21.50 - No roller-coaster landing in Brussels. We all greet, trying to hold on to the last moments of this unique experience, then head home.


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Michel and Lydie only got home 6 days later, as the C130 was waiting for a spare part to be shipped to Kabul, to repair one of it’s engines.


I’ll need another six days to find the AV gear, going from one place to another...

The Military Airport Logistics say they have nothing, the supplier didn’t get it back… but I know the gear came back, as Michel and Lydie were sitting with it in the plane…

Finally, I find it after those 6 days of rushing around… I’m at the airport discussing firmly with the ground-handling staff about how this is just impossible… then ask them if I can see the plane… And there’s the gear… They hadn’t unloaded the C130 as it was slow-down period for Seasons feasts…

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